Q&A with Co-Owner Chris Bray of Billykirk

Co-Owners of Billykirk, Chris Bray and William Kirk Bray

Billykirk makes built-to-last goods that are even cooler when worked in. Their genius has not gone unnoticed. The two brothers have collaborated with Ace Hotel, ACL, Freemans Sporting Club, Levi's, J. Crew, Opening Ceremony, Sebago, and Vans. Billykirk makes the dopest wallets out. Period.

Grungy Gentleman kicks it with Co-Owner of Billykirk, Chris Bray below...

Grungy Gentleman: How would you describe the Billykirk brand and how did the company begin?

Chris Bray: Understated, hand-crafted, American made with a soul and built to get better with age. The idea for a company called "Billykirk" was set into motion in the early 90’s when I made Billykirk Design business cards for Kirk while he was at university studying clothing design. While in school he would make stained glass jewelry from scraps of stained glass our father had and would sell them at a local retail store on his campus. It was fun for all 3 of us to get together on the weekends and create things. I remember one weekend Kirk and I made around 10 country flags necklace pendants out of stained glass for him to sell. Sweden was a favorite of mine and Kuwait. This was during the first Gulf War so we had some Middle Eastern Countries too. So, from these weekends together working on stained glass pieces, refurbishing furniture, making knives, and leather scabbards they all helped plant the seeds for us to one day be business partners. Even the name Billykirk will forever intertwine the 3 of us. Kirks full name is William Kirkland so from William you get Billy and that's the name our father would call Kirk. When we moved to LA in the mid 90’s I was trying to be an actor and after I got burnt out on that I got my real estate license. Kirk had a few assistant clothing design jobs and worked at a coffee shop. On the weekends we would go up and down the coast to flea markets and thrift stores looking for treasures. One day we popped into a little pawn shop in Santa Monica that we would go to on occasion and Kirk immediately noticed a 1 1/4" wide 70’s watch strap with a watch. Kirk just wanted the strap so after a few unsuccessful attempts to purchase 'just the strap' he was able to convince one of the guys there to just sell it to him. He put an old watch on it and wore it all the time. That was in 1998. He would get lots of compliment at the coffee house and one day he went to my office and said, “let’s make these.” The rest is history…….

GG: What type of dude rocks goods from BillyKirk?

CB: Our range is not pigeonholed for a certain age group or "dude." Instead, I think the majority of our fans are ones who appreciates something that is not mass produced but rather made with integrity, using quality materials and not overly designed or flashy. I have always said that our style of design is not meant to be the focus of attention and our particular customer resonates with that philosophy.

GG: What goes into creating the perfect wallet for a man?

CB: We keep most of our designs fairly simple in structure and design and because we do a lot of hand stitching there are not a lot of details and thin pieces of leather for multiple card slots, etc. We also favor the front pocket style wallet for safety and also to keep the wallet cleaned out and organized. Most guys have receipts and stubs that are months and even years old that are simply not needed and add to the clutter. I started becoming more of a minimalist when I moved to the East Coast and feel that way of life just helps my overall stress level and calmness. Keeping ones wallet organized is simply an extension of this type of lifestyle.

GG: Grungy Gentleman is obsessed with your Passport Wallet with Pocket. What are your favorite details from the piece?

CB: I received a simple passport holder in the early 90's before a trip abroad that I liked quite a lot but it was only a passport cover and had no pocket to keep train tickets, currency or stamps organized. When we were developing our version I knew that would be an area we would have to improve on. The loop closure we use to hold the pocket flap down on our passport wallet and a number of other items is a signature look we have been using for 10 years.

GG: Which accessories from BillyKirk do you own?

CB: I have a quite a few Billykirk belts I rotate regularly and I have gone through a number of wallets, cuffs and card cases over the years. I retire them after they have worn in and start another one. It's also a way to test structural integrity and new leathers. I would say all of our family and close friends travel with our bags. Again, it's not only our way of saying thanks for all of their support over the years but we also want to see how they wear in and where improvements can be made.

Freemans Sporting Club x Billykirk

GG: What type of leather is your favorite to use in the creative process?

CB: Harness weight, vegetable tanned leathers work very well for most of our collection. These types of sturdy leathers are the same types of leathers used for saddles, bridles, and reins so you know they will stand the test of time and wear in quite nicely. We also have leathers made especially for us from a couple of tanneries. Horween Leather out of Chicago, in particular, is a tannery that really understands our need to offer unique, one of kind leathers to our customers and we feel fortunate to have them as a partner.

GG: How would you describe your own style?

CB: Traditional, usually sensible and never ostentatious.

Billykirk x J. Crew

GG: What clothing brands do you pair with your BillyKirk accessories?

CB: My Brother, Kirk got me a great jacket from Taylor Supply the past Christmas that epitomizes our style: Quality made with quality materials, understated style, and made in the USA. I also like Engineered Garments, Billy Reid, Unis, Steven Alan, Levi's Vintage Clothing, Woolrich Woolen Mills, Tellason and Imogene & Willie Jeans.

GG: What can we expect next from BillyKirk?

CB: For Fall 2011 we are showing a extensive range of bags. Our School Boy Satchel exceeded our expectations last season so we are doing that in a special brown and black leather from Horween. We have a great soft sided briefcase, new rucksack, dopp kit, zippered tote and a blue slate colored waxed cotton that should do very well. We also have a few new belts, new felt hats and look forward to more successful collaborations with Levi's, Opening Ceremony, Vans, Ace Hotel, Freeman Transport, Sebago, Freeman Sporting Club, and ACL.